Lourdes Blog
Lourdes Pilgrimage 20-24 June 2011
16 participants from a cross section of the parish.
Leader: Carl Grey.
Spiritual Director: Fr. Chris Rutledge
Day1 Monday
After a very early start (5.30 am) and a problem-free flight to Toulouse, we enjoyed a pleasant drive through the French countryside along the nearly empty A24 towards the Pyrenees.
2 hours later we were greeted by the sight of the basilica of Our Lady of Lourdes as we approached the town and there we were. What a contrast to the tranquil hamlets and villages we had just driven through.
As we drove over the sun-drenched River Gave visitors, pilgrims and tourists thronged the streets, or sat eating their midday meals on cafe terraces, protected from the glare of the sun by brightly coloured awnings.
The heat as we stepped off the coach in front of our hotel, conveniently situated in the heart of the town, was quite overpowering, especially as only a few hours earlier we had departed England in fairly average temperatures. Fr. Chris's first task as spiritual director was to instruct those of us who, like myself, were visiting Lourdes for the first time, in basic survival techniques, the first lesson of which is that spiritual and physical well-being go hand in hand. Therefore, under his guidance, we repaired to the terrace of a nearby brasserie, where the restorative powers of a light meal, accompanied by a glass of the local white wine, Jurancon, was proof indeed of the wisdom of this lesson. Lourdes, after all, seemed to be a perfect blend of the spiritual and the material: during the course of our very simple first meal it became evident that Lourdes, in addition to its status as one of the most inspirational pilgrimage sites in the world, remains a quintessential, small southern French town, endowed with a plentiful supply of sunshine and gastronomic delights.
Sustained by this revelation, and ready to embark on the start of our spititual journey, in the afternoon we joined the queue of pilgrims and filed into the grotto of Massabielle, a surprisingly moving encounter for someone like me, a hitherto sitting-on-the fence sort of person. One undeniable truth is that the tens of thousands of people, sick and well, gathered in the domain, lighting candles, queuing patiently, have all come with one aim in mind: to pray, not for a miracle, but for acceptance of their lives as they are and will be in the future. The total silence of the domain and the prevailing atmosphere of prayer and reverence was in stark contrast to the rampant commercialism of the streets outside. I added my candle to the thousands flickering under the rocks. Then the chimes of the basilica rang out the notes of the Lourdes hymn, a sound with which we would become very familiar during the course of the week.
On the way back I was astonished to see just how many people, dressed in their distinctive uniforms, were giving up their time to care for the sick and disabled, on whom everything in Lourdes is centred. I also observed how many shops identified themselves with saints, one of which traded under the name St. Laurence O'Toole. Some of us laughed when we saw that, but I have since found out that he is in fact a bona fide Irish saint, and that the last laugh was on us.
Before dinner our group assembled and joined in the Rosary. This was repeated every evening before dinner and was led by a different person each time.
After a refreshing and copious evening meal in our very comfortable hotel, we watched the torchlight procession from the steps of the basilica. Some of our members joined in, but as a novice pilgrim I knew that only so many spiritual events are advisable per day, especially when sleep beckons, so I limited myself to a short viewing from a distance, knowing that I would return later in the week. It was a wonderful spectacle and I resolved to join in at least part of the procession another night.
I was allocated the task of forming a little choir which would lead the singing during the daily morning Masses. A choir was formed thus:
Monica alto choir leader
Pat soprano assistant choir leader
Catherine soprano
Denise soprano
Chris (White) tenor
Ray bass
During the first evening's practice the hotel piano was soon declared unfit for purpose, a fact wholeheartedly endorsed by Fr. Chris, who had earier made valiant attempts to extract a tune from it. All practices henceforth would be a capello. Marian hymns were selected, agreed upon, and diligently rehearsed.
After a nightcap in the bar most weary pilgrims made their way to bed. A minor miracle for me was that the sound of revelry floating up into my bedroom from the street below did not prevent me from falling asleep.
Was awoken early (6.00 am) by the sound of coachloads of raucous pilgrims being transported from the hotel.
Day 2 Tuesday
Mass said by Fr.Chris.
Coffee. Lunch. During the course of this first full day we were able to enjoy 3 full meals (albeit the normal continental breakfast) which would form the pattern of the following three days. Lunches and evening meals consisted of 3 courses: a starter or soup, followed by a main course of meat or fish and vegetables, and a dessert, washed down with a local wine and/or water. On every day except that of our arrival (see above) I limited my moderate alcohol consumption to the evening meal, in order to avoid the temptation to spend the afternoon asleep, but that was simply a personal choice. At the end of the meals the chef came out to talk to our group, several of whom he had met the previous year. I was lucky enough to be able to practise my French with him and also with one of the waiters, with whom I struck up a nice badinage.
Visit to the new Stations of the Cross. This promised to be an arduous and steep walk, for which I was persuaded to accept the use of a wheelchair, a difficult decision for a stubborn person like myself, but as a result of allowing myself to accept help I was able to obtain a much better appreciation of the magnificent marble sculptured depictions of Christ's Passion, Resurrection and Ascension (17 in all) completed in 2008. They weave their way through a wooded area high up on the banks of the Gave, but the decision to allow myself to be pushed around - definitely the most difficult thing I had to do in Lourdes - had 2 unexpected benefits, one for me and one for my companions: I myself was less tired at the end, whilst the pushers of the wheelchair had something to hold on to. At least that is what I told myself, because I did feel a bit guilty letting others (Fr. Chris and Chris White) do all the hard work. We just completed the circuit before the fine, humid weather broke and thundery rain set in.
Whilst we were visiting the Stations of the Cross other, braver members of our group bathed in the spring waters, joining a long queue to do so.
Day3 Wednesday
International Mass in the underground basilica. Amazing how what the day before had looked like a giant multi-storey car park was transformed into a spectacular venue for the celebration of Mass attended by approximately 5,000 people. This was, apparently, less than the normal number at this time of year. Economic constraints have adversely affected the number of pilgrims. Notwithstanding, the basilica was packed and the occasion extraordinarily powerful. As everywhere in Lourdes, the sick had pride of place at the front of the crypt. The music was both rousing and restrained. Interesting to me was the way in which Haydn's St Anthony Chorale has been adapted to the needs of congregational singing. The international flavour was reflected in a minimum of 7 languages used in various parts of the liturgy, all of 
which were displayed on screens at strategic points around the arena.
Lunch. Shopping. Walked as far as the old town. One of the ladies with me proved to be surprisingly adept at dealing with rogue shopkeepers and managed to strike considerable bargains in the purchasing of souvenirs.
After dinner I watched the torchlight procession from the steps of the basilica. Many of our group participated, but the event was still amazing as a spectacle.
Sleep was prevented by the noise of partying on the street until well into the early hours, due to the summer solstice. The French Minister of Culture had ordered this to be celebrated publicly, and it was. The ending of the revelry at about 2.00 am was swiftly followed by the arrival of the street cleaners' carts, further postponing the advent of sleep. I watched the scene from my bedroom window and briefly considered joining in before deciding against, for practical reasons. Resolved to buy earplugs asap.
Day 4 Thursday
Mass in the Church of the Poor Clares, followed by coffee.
After lunch I took a ride on the 'petit train' which took me up as far as the old town. Bought ear plugs, subsequently to be found unnecessary. Although I loved being part of a cohesive group , I found that it is good to build in time to be on your own, just briefly.
On this, the final evening, as we were sitting in the hotel bar, Fr. Chris suddenly proposed one last visit to the grotto. It was late, after 10 o'clock, and my initial reaction was that it would be too tiring, but Fr Chris borrowed a wheelchair and he and Catherine took it in turns to push me from the hotel and into the grotto. We joined the pilgrims and filed past the shrine of St. Bernadette. The occasion was solemn and moving in away that is difficult, or impossible, to put into words. The impromptu decision to go at that time of the evening, the solemnity of the pilgrims, the total silence amongst all those present, the sheer number of candles burning, and the warm summer night: all these elements played a part in explaining why the visit was so special, but they don't fully account for the indefinable comfort to be gained from the experience. What is certain is that I am very glad that I went at that time. Thank you Fr. Chris for suggesting it and thank you Catherine for pushing me round.
Didn't need ear plugs that night.
Day 5
Home.
Summary
The following is a synopsis of what made this an excellent pilgrimage:
1. Organisation. Excellent. The right balance of structure and flexibility.
2. Accommodation. The Hotel Agena is perfectly appointed to give easy access to both the domain and the town centre. It is an Irish hotel and apparently we were lucky to be allowed to stay there. Thank you Carl. (The comfortable bed made up for the lack of cupboard and wardrobe space, in which the French display a distinct lack of interest.)
3. People. Pilgrimage was composed of a good cross section of parishioners from north and south Bracknell. It was good to put names at last to familiar faces, and to meet and get to know different parishioners. Although there was absolutely no obligation to attend the morning Masses and evening prayer, we all did so because we wanted to. Everyone had a chance to participate in the readings or to lead the prayers, and the choir was, dare I say it, quite good, even attempting some basic harmony.
4. Balanced content. Plenty of time was built in for individual and non-spiritual activities such as shopping, reading, or the sampling of local beverages. Mealtimes provided the opportunity to deepen friendships as well as to enjoy the delicious and ample cuisine.
One word of warning: You can find in Lourdes nourishment for the body and soul, good company and usually fine, warm weather, but it is probably best not to expect to find rest.
On a personal level, these are the 3 impressions of Lourdes that have remained with me:
1. The way in which the sick are treated, not as victims, but as integral part of the community;
2. Daily evidence of the good in human nature;
3. The impossibility of putting into words what it is that makes Lourdes a rather special place.
Finally, it seems to me that, in its organisation, composition and structure the parish pilgrimage contained all elements which make such a trip successful: exactly the right blend of spiritual sustenance, physical comfort and pilgrims.
Merci a tous!
- St. Joseph’s Church
- Parish Office,
- Stanley Walk, Bracknell
- Berkshire
- RG12 1HA
01344 425729
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